How to Grill

April 16, 2001
The giddy joy that comes with picking up this tribute to outdoor cooking is comparable to the adolescent thrill of sneaking a naughty magazine into the garage. Not only does every conceivable meat, fish and fowl get its turn over the coals, there is a whole Barbecued Cabbage stuffed with bacon and onion and even a grilled Crème Brûlée. Raichlen focuses on creative techniques, employing everything from butcher's string and bricks wrapped in foil to inserting a half-full can of beer into the cavity of a chicken: when placed on the grill it simultaneously steams the bird and holds it upright, allowing the skin to grow crisp. Indeed, Raichlen's (Miami Spice; High-Flavor Low-Fat Cooking) approach is anything but shy. However, to limit the book to a manageable size, Raichlen presents just one or two recipes for each cut of meat or type of seafood. Thus a single lamb is chopped into a new-world-order menu of Rack of Lamb Marrakech, Sichuan-Spiced Loin Lamb Chops and Leg of Lamb Provençal. Throughout, every recipe is made foolproof with step-by-step instructions and, happily, a photo accompanies every one of the steps. While none could be considered a full-fledged centerfold, it is impossible not to gaze upon them—and lust.